Saqqara
There is a reason why this video is the way it is and I don't want to explain right now.
I will say this: My cough was instantly recognizable. Quite a few locals asked if I had been smoking the shisha pipe, also called a hookah in other parts of the world; when I first asked for a hookah, some people thought I was asking for a Coca-Cola.
Yes, indeed, I tried out the shisha pipe the night before at a little cafe across the street from my hotel in downtown Cairo. Being a non-smoker, that sucker definitely made an impression - I was coughing for the rest of the trip.